derek guy

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

My pleasure!

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

Thank you! Please reach out to the shelter! He may be put down tomorrow. nycacc.app#/browse/225834

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

don't know why you're arguing with me. i posted a listing hoping that a dog that may be put down tomorrow will get adopted. you noted that pitbulls are aggressive and this dog may harm people. i said this is a staffy, not a pitbull. that's it. have a nice day!

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHjS...

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

i've raised money for immigrants and a woman who was on the verge of becoming homeless. this post is to help a dog. i don't know the family and have no way of identifying them. please don't moralize under my post. if you would like to help the family, go find them and raise money

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

this is not a pitbull. he's a staffy.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

i am not going off of what people call the dog. i am going off the actual dog. you can tell the difference btw a pitbull and staffy by the shape of their head and ears.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

this is not a pitbull. he's a staffy

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

this is not a pitbull. he's a staffy. although i've raised a pitbull and love pitbulls. just don't want misinformation about this dog who may be put down tomorrow bc someone said something incorrect.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

yes! please contact the shelter. he may be put down tomorrow.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

Some parting thoughts: — Consider your wardrobe when choosing a hat. Think of it as social language — Resist the temptation to go overly stingy with a full brim. Sometimes those don't frame the face well — Make sure sizing is right. And remember some hat materials can shrink with time.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

Finally, remember that, like with anything you put on, it's all about fit, proportion, and silhouette. If you're shopping at a good store, they can (hopefully) advise you in this area. If you're shopping online, you'll have to experiment. The Youtube channel thePanamaHatGuy offers some good tips.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

Perhaps no one wears a hat better than Kévis Manzi. If you're just getting into clothes, some of these outfits may feel out of reach in terms of what you feel comfortable wearing. But you can always take inspiration and adjust on the margins. His IG is great IG kevismanzi

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

If those aren't casual enough, consider the bucket hat. The smaller brim won't give you as much coverage, but it may work better with certain casualwear styles. The Instagram account fitting_in_now has a lot of great bucket hat style inspiration. I like Stetson's Fairway. IG fitting_in_now

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

Check out Sublime and Monitaly at No Man Walks Alone. Also look at the options at JJ Hat Center, Optimo, Lock & Co., Quaker Marine Co, and Two Roads Hat Company. Stetson offers their famous Open Road in straw, which might be cool if you're into Westernwear.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

Sublime makes "paper" hats that you can literally roll up and stick into your pocket or a tube, which makes them particularly useful for travel. You can see how this style sits much more comfortably against things such as denim and olive field jackets. Less "gentleman;" more "hanging out."

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

If you want that sort of thing, you can check out Brent Black and Worth & Worth, who offer some of the finest Panamas in the world. But not all Panamas are so formal. Take a look at how a straw hat changes with a darker straw and rougher weave. Suddenly, it looks a little more casual.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

A Panama hat can be as casual or refined as you want. Refined versions typically come in a lighter colored straw and finer weave. In the video above, you can see how finer weaves require more skilled labor, and thus demand a higher price. Personally, I think these are best with suits or sport coats.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

The problem with a baseball cap is that it doesn't give you much neck coverage. So if you want a full brim hat, the most obvious choice for summer is the Panama. Traditionally made in Ecuador, these got their name bc they were historically shipped through the Panama Canal.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

I like Polo Ralph Lauren's USA caps, Papa Nui, and vintage Polo Sportsman (available on eBay). Kapital does a trucker cap that says "Denim Men Loves Cats," so I of course like that one too. But for John, I recommend Ebbets Field Flannels. It's a classic design that goes with a lot of stuff.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

First, I should say that I think baseball caps are great. You just have to find one you like. They can be distinguished by the shape and construction of the crown, which can be floppy or reinforced with buckram (like New Era caps). I even like trucker caps.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

I'll give this a shot. 🧵

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

No matter where you live, please consider adopting an animal from your local shelter. I promise you they will brighten your life beyond measure. They are the comfort on hard days. Even if you can't fully adopt, your local shelter could use help fostering. Reach out to them to see.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

NYC friends: this poor dog was almost on his freedom ride out of the pound when his foster didn't show up on him. He's now in danger of being put down. Do you have space in your home and heart to adopt him? ❤️ Also, lots of animals at this NYC shelter who need a home. nycacc.app#/browse/225834

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

i also don't want to "monetize" myself by selling merch, newsletters, or branded vodka, but it also feels like this is the only way people earn enough money nowadays to get any savings that allows them to live in peace.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

i have no ambitions for power, great wealth, or crazy luxuries. just like animals and clothes. i appreciate that the audience i've built has allowed me to raise money for animals, but ive also received so much hate for a guy who just wants to read, walk, and pet cats.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

all i want is to one day own a modest sized home in a walkable neighborhood and raise money for shelter animals. wear an outfit i like, walk to the grocery store, buy some nectarines, feed cats, and live in peace. just don't understand why achieving this is so hard

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

I worry that escalating war with Iran will be used to whip up more fear and hate for non-white immigrants, particularly those of Arab descent, and be used for unjust deportations.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

Pitti Uomo is a menswear trade show that happens twice a year in Florence, Italy. It's where brands and store reps meet to conduct their seasonal buys. I dig these photos my friend Peter took at the show. IG urbancomposition

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

just saw a group of masked men stuffing masked ICE agents into an unmarked car, who were saying "we're ICE we're ICE!" but the abductors shouted to the crowd "no we're ICE!" no one knew who was ICE, so no one in the crowd said anything.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

Dr. Andre Churchwell, brother of Dr. Keith Churchwell. Both men accomplished cardiologists who use Logsdail for their tailoring. IG classofpalmbeach

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

Unexpected crossover. One of my favorite IG style accounts featured Dr. Keith Churchwell, a man whose style I've admired for 20 years. Dr. Churchwell's tailor is Leonard Logsdail, who made clothes for The Wolf of Wall Street and American Gangster. IG ladiesofmadisonave

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

I will leave you with this clip from CJ the X, a YouTuber who interviewed me last year. They talk about how they found their style, which is legible if you expand your visual vocabulary. And if you don't get it, that's fine. It's for them and their group — not you.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

People challenging gender norms are not intentionally dressing "ugly," as the original poster suggests, nor are they trying to gain "victim points." They are dressing in a way they find beautiful, but according to a different language. Appreciating that aesthetic requires cultural literacy.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

A grey suit jacket can't be worn with jeans bc you've mixed up the language, creating a sartorial mullet. To bridge the gap in formality, you need a more casual coat, such as a Donegal tweed. In this way, it's recognizing there are many legitimate visual languages, but you have to speak fluently.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

To me, there is such a thing as an ugly outfit. But it's not about believing that everything outside of a hegemonic mode of beauty is "ugly." An outfit can be ugly if it makes no sense, much like a sentence can be bad if I smash random letters together.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

However, even if you're not so lucky, you can still look great. Some outfits work better on people who aren't conventionally attractive. These can include "old man clothing" (e.g., homely tweeds), workwear brands like Kapital, or avant-garde lines like Comme des Garçons. These can still be stylish.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

Of course, we're all dealt with a certain genetic hand, which defines our physical features. These features can be shaped and changed, but only within bounds. Some people receive a particularly good set of cards and thus look unusually handsome, which makes it easier to wear certain things.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

William Long, for example, was accepted into the club bc he had a nose “like a pair of nutcrackers.” Matthew Strong had “flook mouth” and an “irregular bad set of teeth like those of an old worn-out comb thoroughly begrim’d.” Jos Farmer was let in bc one like him would not appear for 1,000 years.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

The idea we should accept ugliness is not new. In the 19th century, ugly bachelors across Europe organized “ugly clubs," where they sang, drank, and satirized their own looks. At the Liverpool Ugly Face, members were accepted based on whether they were "odd, remarkable, or droll."

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

If you expand your cultural vocabulary, you will be more stylish. In 2019, Megan Nolan wrote a NYT essay titled "Why Do We All Have to Be Beautiful?" She says today’s inclusive idea that everyone is beautiful does more harm than good. Not everyone is beautiful and that's OK!

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

And here are two people wearing attire that's a bit more alternative. IMO, all four people are beautifully dressed but they using two different visual languages. IG langleyseye

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

They don't valorize "ugliness." They legitimize non-hegemonic forms of dress. Here are two people wearing clothes that are a bit more classic. IG langleyseye

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

What progressives have done is expand on the idea of aesthetics and capital. Instead of our dress habits being solely defined by those with financial and political capital, it can also be shaped by those with *cultural* capital: musicians, artists, countercultural rebels, etc.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

Of course, Pierre Bourdieu noted this in his 1979 book Distinction, where he observed that our notions of "good taste" are nothing more than the habits and preferences of the ruling class. Georg Simmel said something similar in 1902 when he said fashion is a game of imitation.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

The link between power and aesthetics becomes especially clear when you consider how certain styles became dominant in the first place. Either the ruling class had an innate eye for beauty, or we find things beautiful because they’ve long been associated with power and privilege.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

It should be no surprise that our ideas of male beauty and attire are shaped by politics and economics. This is because people are quick to remind you that the most powerful men nowadays don't wear suits. The bourgeoisie is always chasing after the rich, wanting to copy.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

Even our judgement of *scent* can change. In the 1980s, mens fragrances were characterized by heavy woods and smokey leathers. Many now find these scents overpowering, the sort of thing worn on hairy chests. If they wear scents at all, it's often "invisible scents" that go unnoticed.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

At the end of the 1800s, "gentlemen" wore frock coats and lowly clerks wore suits. But as these broker citizens saw their fortunes rise with industrial capitalism, their clothes took on status. Soon, everyone wore drab and dreary suits. A Bond Street tailor lamented the change in 1912:

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

Male dress during this century also transformed. The flamboyance of the Regency period faded into the somber attire of men who "wanted to appear as grave and serious as the banks and factories they owned." This was the birth of the lounge suit, a progenitor of the business suit.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

It wasn't until the end of the century that Eugene Sandow was able to rebrand visible strength. He opened a luxurious fitness club on London's prestigious St. James Street. Suddenly, muscle mass wasn't low-class; it demonstrated self-mastery. The bourgeoise bought into the idea.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

This is because the idea of male beauty was shaped by socio-economic class. Visible muscle mass suggested you were a lowly field hand or navvy (a canal worker). A "gentleman," in the socio-economic sense, did not labor. He *pondered.* This was a romantic, intellectual figure.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

But this was not always so. In the early 19th century, the ideal male figure was pale and thin. Lord Byron, famous for his looks, was 5'9" and weighed as little as 133 lb. He wore curls at night to enhance his soft look. Beau Brummell, the original dandy, was also not very muscular.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

I contend that beauty in personal appearance is subjective, not objective. In fact, its standards rest on the shifting tectonic plates of politics, economics, and technology. Let me give you examples. Today, we think of these photos as the standard for male beauty and dress:

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

In popular discourse, the world was once good, people were virtuous, and all things were beautiful. Then modernity came along and destroyed everything. In this view, beauty is an objective standard that has been corrupted by liberalism.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

It's true that progressives valorize "ugliness." But I think this person doesn't interrogate this position enough and thus lands at the wrong conclusion. Let me give you my perspective on ugliness. 🧵

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

I will leave you with this note from Bruce Boyer, one of my favorite men's style writers. Whichever you choose, at least now you know a bit about these style's social histories and why they're called what they're called.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

In the original thread, some suggested that one knot is more formal than the other. This is false. They are equal in terms of formality and you should wear what you like. As you can see in the replies to the original thread, people are divided on which looks better.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

It's small and discrete. The asymmetry lends a sense of insouciance, much like how pocket squares should be stuffed and not folded like origami. I think it looks best with a dimple, as this will give the knot some three-dimensionality.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

Most guys who love classic tailoring prefer a four-in-hand because it's still the knot that was mostly worn by style icons of the 20th century: Gary Cooper, Fred Astaire, Cary Grant, Paul Newman, Andy Warhol, etc. It's certainly the only knot if you like Ivy Style.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

But the association between socio-economic class and knot still holds true. Just look at photos of Reagan with his VP running mate George H.W. Bush, who came from Old Money. Bush wore the four-in-hand. Reagan, who grew up less privileged, wore the Windsor.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

To be sure, this doesn't mean you can't wear a Windsor. For instance, I think Ronald Reagan is the most stylish American male politician ever. If you were to list the top five best-dressed US presidents, he would occupy all five slots because no one else comes close.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

In Ian Flemming's "From Russia, with Love," he remarks on how a Windsor knot is the mark of a cad. That's because many men at the time thought a Windsor suggested vanity. It was too trendy and studied. Perhaps, but it's also hard to separate this from our judgment of class.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

In his 1979 book Distinction, French sociologist Pierre Bourdieu correctly recognized that our notion of "good taste" is often nothing more than the preferences and habits of the ruling class. Hence, the four-in-hand was considered to be in "good taste," while big knots weren't.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

For much of the 20th cent, a man's knot suggested his socio-economic class. The upper-classes wore a four-in-hand; middle class wore a Windsor. However, emphasis here on "suggested," not "definitively prove." Prince Michael of Kent wears monster sized knots and he's aristocracy.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

But here's the rub: the Duke never actually wore a Windsor knot. He had ties specially made with a thicker interlining, which gave the knots bulk. Since the Duke set trends, middle-class America copied the look by doubling up on their knot. Hence the name: the Windsor knot.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

Being a dandy, the Duke of Windsor often wore ties that had a fatter knot, as he wanted to be noticed. Notice that these knots are so big, they can be easily spotted from a distance.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

In fact, his clothes gave his father, George V, great consternation. Sometimes his father would speak up, such as when the Duke inspected troops while wearing a Prince of Wales suit with cuffed trousers (considered too casual at the time for such a formal activity).

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

Black and white photos might suggest a degree of discretion and propriety, but his style was anything but. In 1997, Sotheby's auctioned off a portion of the Duke's wardrobe. And inside the catalog, we got to see photos of his clothes in color. His choices were LOUD.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

A kink happens in the 20th century: Edward VIII, the Duke of Windsor, appears on the scene. For a while, whenever he wore something, others followed. He popularized belts, cuffed trousers, button flies, soft collared shirts, and a distinctive style of tailoring known as "drape."

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

When cravats transitioned to the long neckties we're used to seeing today, elites continued this tying method. Hence the name of this knot: the four-in-hand. This method results in a small, discrete knot that's slightly asymmetrical.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

These were essentially "gentlemen's clubs," which is to say they were populated by elites, as no one else could afford such luxuries. Club members often wore cravats or scarves, which they tied a certain way. Here's the Duke of Beaufort, President of the Four-in-Hand club.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

The Four-In-Hand Driving Club was one such organization. The club took its name from the fact that the coach was pulled by a team of four horses. The driver would put the reins of each horse in one hand, leaving the other free to operate the brake.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

The term "drag" refers to the carriage you see above, which was a sporting vehicle that was lighter than the more robust stagecoach. Men in driving clubs raced drags. Hence the term "drag race" first appearing in an 1863 issue of Racing Times.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

In the mid-19th century, as ready-to-wear tailoring started to take form, people got around in horse-drawn carriages. After all, the car had not yet been invented. During this time, some formed driving clubs, where they rode drags. Check out the text in this lithograph:

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

Earlier this week, I asked which tie knot you think looks better. Of course, you can wear whichever you like. But here's the social history behind both knots and why some people consider one better than the other. 🧵

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

at a party with smart people who are discussing foreign affairs and praying someone asks what's the population of iran so i can chime in

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

Sensible, practical advice.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

my immigrant ass self deporting as the US enters a global war

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

🫂

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

?

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

Later on, I can give you the historical, sociological reason why one is often considered "better." But most people don't know that reason, so for this, you are basing it just on appearance.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

One knot is bigger, more symmetrical. The other knot is smaller, less symmetrical. Which looks better to you? IG justin__kwan

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

Oh wow!! Thank you for the incredibly generous donation (*esp* including the trap!!). And sorry for the late reply. So many kind people donated that I've been slowly working my way through the responses. Really, really appreciate you supporting this small town shelter during kitten season!! TY!!!

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

no reason to feel you have to change. Some of this is just about finding clothes that express what you want and make you happy. Some other posts you may find useful dieworkwear.com/2019/03/07/a... putthison.com/dressing-the... dieworkwear.com/2020/08/01/o... putthison.com/start-here/

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

But in the original link above ("springboard wardrobe"), there are some suggestions for stuff you can buy to get started. Those items alone will constitute a nice wardrobe. But they also allow you to explore your own taste. I will say, if you feel you've already settled on your taste, there's ...

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

I think of style as social language, which means I don't think there's a single "correct" way to dress, just as there's not a "correct" way to speak. There are many ways, each formed by culture. You can read this perspective here: dieworkwear.com/2022/08/26/h...

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

Hello! Thank you for the donation! And sorry it took me a while to reply. So many kind people donated that I've been slowly working my way through the questions. Yours happens to be easy! You may like this post: putthison.com/the-springbo...

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

For some more ideas, you may like this post www.mrporter.com/en-us/journa... I also did a podcast episode once with my friend @bigfits.bsky.social on how to dress as a larger guy. You may find the podcast episode useful. He gives a lot of tips pod.link/blamo/episod...

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

IMO, all you need are some button-up shirts (casual or dress, depending on your lifestyle), a good pair of jeans or chinos (most guys are one or the other), a couple of knits (Shetlands, maybe a grey sweatshirt), and a jacket you really like. If the clothes fit well, you'll look good.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

— If you can't find a good pair of jeans that fits well off-the-rack, check Todd Shelton. They can make a custom pair. — Finally, I think Ralph Lauren generally makes nice stuff. They have a big and tall section. Brooks Brothers and Levi's do, as well, but IMO the quality is a bit more spotty.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

— If you want button-up shirts, check Proper Cloth. They're an online made-to-measure shirt company. Free remakes on the first order, which allows you to home-in on the fit. You can also ask for an online consultation, which again helps with nailing the fit. They do casual and dress shirts.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

I don't have any specific recommendations for big and tall lines. But here are some ideas: — If you need classic clothing (suits, sport coats), check O'Connell's in Buffalo, NY. Their aesthetic is pretty traditional, but they're very size inclusive. Good for things like suits, knits, tailored pants

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

If you're just starting to build a wardrobe, you may find these pieces useful putthison.com/the-springbo... You may also like these posts about budget shopping putthison.com/how-to-shop-... putthison.com/tag/budget-s... putthison.com/tag/value-fo... putthison.com/tag/what-you...

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

I don't think there's a single "correct" way to dress for a person's body type. There are many ways people of all builds can dress, each way rooted in ideas about culture. You can read more about this viewpoint here: dieworkwear.com/2022/08/26/h...

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

Hello! Thank you so much for donating! And apologies for the late reply. So many kind people donated that I've been slowly working my way through the questions. So, this is a hard question to answer because I think of of style as social language, which means everything starts with your aesthetic

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

Those remote services can't always measure you in person, but if you have a pair of pants that are perfect in every other regard, that can be a way to build a wardrobe for less than what a traditional bespoke tailor might charge. Hope that helps and thank you for donating during kitten season!!

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

Unfortunately, custom trousers aren't cheap (I think I Sarti Italiani is around $300, but other houses can easily be closer to $1k for a pair of pants). If you end up getting a pair that fits perfectly, contact Luxire or Sartoria Pastena. They may be able to copy them for cheaper.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

If you happen to be in or around NYC, Williamsburg Garment Company also makes custom jeans. If you can't find trousers that fit off the rack, contact I Sarti Italiani, WW Chan, and Divij Bespoke. They hold trunk shows in various cities around the US and can make you a custom pair.

derek guy (@dieworkwear.bsky.social):

For jeans, Buck Mason's new "Full Saddle" cut is somewhat of a higher rise, but it may not be high enough for your build. Still, I would check that first. Levi's Vintage Clothing's 1947 501s might also be worth a look. If those don't work, Todd Shelton makes custom jeans.