I do hate that the inciting incident is Kes wandering away from a tour group. For starters, that's just a bad tour group if everyone is unknowingly thirty seconds away from mortal peril. More importantly, Kes is innocent and naïve, but she's not a fool. It feels like the plot demands her to act OoC.
Janeway's spiritual voyage is a difficult story to tell, told about as well as it could be in the constraints of the medium. The ending, when Janeway seems shaken to hear a scientific explanation of what she went through, is a really great moment… that won't affect Janeway's future character at all.