Sometimes you see companies missing this even in really basic ways, such as this flapped pocket that doesn't align with the body or jett. This typically happens when the company is trying to cut cost, so operator has limited time to spend on each garment. Slap, dash, and hope customer doesn't notice
Deserved. Absolutely deserved.
Fascinating thread! When I made myself a checked tweed jacket (big pattern repeat) I took the cop-out route of making the pocket flaps, collar etc. out of a toning cotton velvet, because I'm not skilled enough to do good pattern-matching like that (and bad pattern matching looks awful).
Excellent article. Thanks for the insight and information. ❤️
Excellent thread! When I worked in Hong Kong I got hooked on tailored clothing.
Great thread. Thank you.
On the internet today, you can find countless companies who present their tailoring in very "alpha male" or "luxurious" ways. These are typically not real tailors. They are businesspeople who are working with overseas factories. They also work with influencers, who make stuff like this:
Not the ai generated dog lining 😂 i started laughing
This alpha ad is so fucking absurd. And the suit looks like shit.
Stop. Alpha Gentlemen is not real. Is it???? Horrors!
LOL Rush?
The face I made when I saw how the jacket pulled when when he buttoned it up! And it really did not get better from there... (though I suspect I mostly noticed because Derek just walked us through all this, again.)
🤮🤮🤮🤮
How fucking dare they sully Rush with their desperate bullshit
That Alpha Gent ad, yikes! If I saw someone do a reveal that they had nft lining I don't think I'd be able to stop laughing
Derek i like you, big fan, why would you make me watch this lol
Ooh, and I bet they didn't pay to use "Tom Sawyer"! Right Wing shills never seem to respect artist copyright.
Plus, Rush is as Canadian as the day is long.
I'm guessing this ad knows the aesthetic and signifiers its target audience wish to ape, but by God - it's so toe-curlingly cringe.
This is the most hilariously tragic video I have ever seen 😂😂😂.
it may be hard to believe, but you’re an influencer too; of the good kind.
For instance, despite the "USA USA USA" branding, Sec. Hegseth's clothes are made by a company called Book A Tailor, which uses workshops in Thailand. To be clear, there's nothing wrong with Thai tailoring. The problem is soley in the business owner.
They look so uncomfortable in their clothing
They literally look as if maybe they lost their luggage Maybe they're wearing someone else's stuff that doesn't quite fit, but it's all anyone could find for them at short notice
Or, if deliberate, Laurel and Hardy cosplay It's so bad it's approaching the comic
at least we have that. they don't deserve comfort.
Do you know any good tailors in Thailand? I'm a fat woman living in Bangkok and need a good fitting suit for work.
These business owners are typically more interested in money than tailoring. They will sell you anything, even if it's a stupid gimmick — a contrast buttonhole, wacky lining, fun monogram, stitching inside made to look like hand stitching (even though it's 100% machine).
Anything to distract you from the fact that the garment is not actually well made. It does not fit nor flatter. It puckers and pulls. It has no shape. Ends up being all about flash and no substance. The company owner doesn't care because they just want to make a sale.
😳
Hameen is a tiny, assuming shop, but inside you will find an actual craftsperson who knows the technical work of tailoring. The quality is purely in the stuff that matters — fit, silhouette, make. My usual disclosure: This is not a paid tweet and I don't do paid tweets
Not even paid in tweed?
that herringbone coat my GOD
My wardrobe consists of jeans and sweatshirts but I love this tailor and that top coat is amazing. Thanks for the thread.
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*unassuming shop
I think you mean it's an unassuming shop.
My hope with this thread is that you separate the wheat from the chaff when shopping. Learn how to ask the right questions and spot real craftsmanship. If you want to follow Hameen, you can find them on Instagram under the names hameen_official and hamin.kor
This was a great thread. Thank you.
Bespoke clothing is out of reach for nearly all Americans, since bespoke is basically extinct outside of NYC (or other big cities), if they exist at all. Price point is also prohibitive. I have no idea where to get a coat fitted for just *me* outside of traveling to Asia.
I've heard that Hong Kong shops visit the USA to do measuring for custom suits, I don't know how much they do in the realm of doing 3 fittings though, or if that works with Trump's border people.
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This is a beautiful thread
Oh gosh, now that is tailoring! The coats are gorgeous, but the pleats on that last skirt were also a joy to behold. As was the tailor's own coat.
A, thanks for sharing this persons incredible work. B, thanks for sharing your knowledge. Lovely thread.
It appears this tailor is interested in doing a trunk show in NYC (I just learned this, as they reached out to me to thank me for this post). If you are interested, please reach out to them on Instagram. Their prices are very competitive for bespoke. They make for men and women. IG hameen_official
Let’s say your budget doesn’t reach to a fully bespoke suit made to that level of craftsmanship. Is it better to go for a custom tailored suit from an outfit like that Thai maker, or a nice, off-the-rack suit that may not fit as precisely?
Thanks for this wonderful and informative thread! I do wonder where in the US you find a dry-cleaner capable of maintaining the magnificent pressing on this garment. One of my frustrations with sellers of vintage gowns is that they don't press or starch properly, leaving clothes wilted and flat.
Is there another way to contact them? I abandoned all Meta owned products :-/
This youtube channel appears to be theirs, and the page description has an email address. m.youtube.com/@HaminMing72
Do you have a preferred Savile Row tailor? I’m heading over in a bit and have wanted to build a relationship. All I know is I’m not getting a Kingsmen because I own brogues as well as Oxfords.
Harry Withersten is the absolute best.
I’m skeptical of Gieves and Hawkes because they have Thomas Pink energy.
Davide Taub's work looks amazing and he seems like an interesting guy to boot
Following since I am currently in London and need shirts.
What is a trunk show exactly?
When a tailor travels to a specific location so people can consult with them, get measured and place orders.
I’ve always wondered what happens when an owner of a garment like this gains or loses weight.
Usually, with good bespoke stuff, the tailor leaves some give on the seams. So said seams can be split and resown down the line if needed!
How would you care for/clean a garment like this? Would getting it standardly dry cleaned and pressed destroy the shaping and roll of the lapels and chest?
You will want to find a high quality dry cleaner. If you can't find a suitable one, Rave FabriCARE in Arizona takes mail-ins. Most people will only need to dry clean a suit once a year even with regular wear. Regular maintenance can be done with a garment brush.
This was an illuminating post. I wish everyone could afford bespoke custom made suits/suit
How do you get the right creases in the trousers - iron them after you brush them? Get a trouser press?
What about steaming it yourself? Would that affect the material?
I tried to buy a garment brush from an assumed reputable local tailor for a bespoke wool suit, and they tried to sell me a lint roller. Thankfully my og tailor told me to beware or I would have pulled the knap apart like a fool
Thank you for your post. I just reached out to Hamin! I’ve always wanted a suit, but admittedly don’t really have events where I need to wear a suit. It’s rare to find such pricing in the US, though, and doubly so someone who will make a bespoke women’s suit!
You'll find lots of excuses to wear a suit that fits perfectly
Thank you Derek. Always a pleasure to read your posts. Unfortunately at my age now I’m no longer able to afford fine clothing as I once used to but I do appreciate the skills of a good tailor.
I know this was all about jackets but OMG, that skirt . . . Thanks Derek!
With bespoke clothing, how hard/how often might it need to be updated to match a someone gaining or losing a few pounds of fat or muscle?
I do know that most bespoke clothing includes generous allowances (often decided in consultation with the client) for alterations in the event of weight gain or loss. They're made to last a lifetime, and so traditionally physical changes of the owner over time are taken into consideration.
Indeed! The jacket you cite at the beginning of the thread is gorgeous. Thank you for the deep-dive into the whys and wherefores.
Do you have any tips for (continental) Europe?
And with a Rothko print on the wall, what is not to like...
Great informative thread, thank you
Thank you, Derek, as always! One day I look forward to another thread about clothes for fat people!!
Thank you!
Absolutely beautiful workmanship by Hameen. So relaxing to look at, and appreciate.
An ex of mine works in stage and screen costumery for some major actors/artists but also had her own business creating bespoke tailored suits. It was fascinating to see the attention to detail yet the practiced ease at which she put curves and shape into the garment was incredible. Nothing like it.
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Thank you, I always learn a lot from you.
I just have to say that I truly appreciate your level of knowledge and passion for this kind of work. Your threads are always fascinating.
Nice. Need to know what you are looking for
OK, but do you do paid _tweeds_, though? 😬 (pls forgive me, I need the giggles). I'm here just to enjoy words like 'craftsperson' and your honoring the working class. ✂️
Omg that overcoat made me swoon
As always, thank you for this insightful thread. Sorry, I have to ask, but who is this git in the video, and why would anyone even want to interview such non-entity? Thank you.
MMA fighter Connor McGregor.
Thank you, Sue. I've browsed his 'cv'. He truly is the epitome of sportsmanship. And style. Yuck!
I'm definitely not a fashion guy but McGregor looks ridiculous. Even I can see that.
I was really, really hoping that at the end the interviewer was going to say something like "You dropped all that cash to look like THAT?"
The only thing uglier than this jacket is the soulless and horrible person wearing it.
Sec. Hegseth tries so hard to look like a manly manly warrior man, and he looks like an angry toddler in his too-tight suits.
To me, he looks like someone poor wearing a thrift store suit that doooesn’t quite fit
I don't think I would ever buy from a company called Alpha Gentlemen. The name just seems to cry out pretentiousness and overpriced products of likely dubious quality.
The dog is embarrassed.
Do they have permission to use this song? Do you happen to know @rushisaband.bsky.social?
I also can't get over how the company's logo is present throughout the entire video but doesn't have enough contrast to actually see the entire thing in all but maybe 3 frames. "Make it black because we're MEN" lol
At least the dog is well dressed.
😂
That video has to be ai parody right? 🤣
Using that Rush song for that was a choice....
To add: I love Rush. That song is great. It doesn't belong in this "commercial"
Peak Douche.
Thanks to you, I can notice little things off with the suit. Meaning it hurt all the more to see the AI generated images on the jacket lining. 😵🤮
No self-fabric gun holster?
Neither alpha nor a gentleman
Oh my god, how fucking needy that lining is. I bet he wears GIJoe underoos.
Thank again, as always. This is fascinating.
Thanks for the thread!
I once got dirty looks while passing through a Saks by being thrown off so badly by a completely miss-matched plaid on a 4 figure jacket, to the point where I blurted out "That much for THIS? None of the plaid even matches!" My husband thought it was funny; the sales staff not so much.
Mismatched pockets is just shoddy. I buy off the rack Aloha (Hawaiian) shirts, but I stick to certain Hawaiian-based brands because they do things like get the pocket match correct (and have better quality stitching too). Cheap imports always have mismatched pockets and it gets worse from there.
Any chance of getting a callout to those brands? It's so hard to gauge quality online.
I would like to know, too! My husband wears Hawaiian shirts. We've gotten some very nice ones from Tori Richard, but I'm always looking for new patterns. And they must have the perfectly aligned pockets.
I tend to buy them in-store when I visit Kauai, which limits my options a bit. (More on Oahu, of course, and mail/online order is definitely available.) Of late, I've been purchasing Tori Richard and Kahala, both of which have lines that are designed and produced in Hawaii. 1/
There's others too! Paradise Found is a brand I've not purchased, but they have some nice designs and are produced in Hawaii, too. You can generally get a good feel for some of them online - but it's true that it's not the same as being able to touch the fabric and see the quality. good luck! 2/2
Thanks so much!
One of the first details that make it an aloha shirt and not a tourist shirt. If the pocket isn’t matched it’s not worth looking further.
Awesome as always 😎🤣
Patterns not matching bothers me so much. (Love this thread even if that picture pains me.)
I remember when Lularoe was suddenly everywhere and even my sloppy goblin self could see how lousy that stuff was. the completely misaligned pattern on everyone's backsides being an eyesore a mile away.
That model. He has the tang of a Canadian/Texan mountebank. It’s profoundly eerie.
Ewwwwww! I didn’t even notice it’s face.
