Now let's look at how this work pays off. Since the garment was made specifically for this person, the back fits perfectly. On the right, we see diagonal lines going from the middle of the shoulder to the armpit because the wearer's shoulders are more sloped than the garment's shoulders.
Plus, the man on the right cleans his suits in a washing machine.
I thought the one on the right was a custom Brioni, running well north of $8k, no?
In which 2 pictures are actually worth 10,000 words.
I imagine the tweed fabric is also more structural than cheaper alternatives, resulting in less sagging and stretching?
Not a good form cutting those photo credits of that "man in a navy suit"
What is that shiny, cheap looking material that make-up all of his suits? It looks terrible, like something an indifferent parent would make their toddler wear to Sunday School.
That is such a beautiful illustration... I have long wanted to be good at garment construction - I am not. I am a quilter. I make flat things. LOLOL
Thanks to your influence, after one glance at the first pic, I said “Ooh, look at the roll on those lapels!”
The combination of skilled pad stitching and iron work means the lapels almost look like they're blooming out of the buttoning point. Look at that roll! On the right, the lapels have been pressed flat like a chicken bacon ranch panini.
This thread itself is a work of art.
I really love how the sleeve almost seems to "float" on the wearer
The menswear guy doing underground work for the resistance. 🥷
One is fashion the other is uniform
*panino. Panini is the plural form of
Is that also not to do with the type fabric and size of the lapels?
This is bespoke trolling.
Well said!
I'm here for it!
“…flat like a chicken bacon ranch panini” is so utterly cutting and descriptive. Bravo.
This sort of shaping extends to the chest. Check out how the chest on the tweed jacket curves out a little, like a pectoral muscle. This is the result of haircloth, cutting, pad stitching, and ironwork. The chest on the right has no such shape. Lapels also buckle from the chest
Love the mention of haircloth, my father owned a cloth finishing business. One of his main contracts was for shrinking hair cloth on a steam decatizer. The width of the fabric was limited by how long the available horse hair was. I presumed it was no longer a thing in tailoring,glad to be wrong.
Wait that white shirt is sexy as hell. Looks like it belongs on the cover of a romance novel
And look how smoothly that sleeve hangs. This is because the jacket sleeve is full enough to encase the arm without catching on the shirt sleeve. It's also pitched correctly for the person's natural stance. On the right, we see sleeves that are too tight, so they catch and ripple.
Is that dimple or pucker, or what have you, at the back of the shoulder okay? Unavoidable?
Derek's choice of example pix is beyond hilarious
🤣🤣🤣, sorry...
The tailor even took the time to match the pattern across the collar and the back of the jacket. And across the gorge, which is the seam that connects the jacket's collar to the lapels. This is an impressive level of detail, which shows the tailor takes pride in their work.
This. This is the point where it goes from "thats great" to "oh wow"
That is beautiful And hard to do Just... wow
Gorgeous work. The tailoring and your post! Thank you for sharing.
That's really incredible.
Sometimes you see companies missing this even in really basic ways, such as this flapped pocket that doesn't align with the body or jett. This typically happens when the company is trying to cut cost, so operator has limited time to spend on each garment. Slap, dash, and hope customer doesn't notice
Deserved. Absolutely deserved.
Fascinating thread! When I made myself a checked tweed jacket (big pattern repeat) I took the cop-out route of making the pocket flaps, collar etc. out of a toning cotton velvet, because I'm not skilled enough to do good pattern-matching like that (and bad pattern matching looks awful).
Excellent article. Thanks for the insight and information. ❤️
Excellent thread! When I worked in Hong Kong I got hooked on tailored clothing.
Great thread. Thank you.
On the internet today, you can find countless companies who present their tailoring in very "alpha male" or "luxurious" ways. These are typically not real tailors. They are businesspeople who are working with overseas factories. They also work with influencers, who make stuff like this:
Not the ai generated dog lining 😂 i started laughing
This alpha ad is so fucking absurd. And the suit looks like shit.
Stop. Alpha Gentlemen is not real. Is it???? Horrors!
LOL Rush?
The face I made when I saw how the jacket pulled when when he buttoned it up! And it really did not get better from there... (though I suspect I mostly noticed because Derek just walked us through all this, again.)
🤮🤮🤮🤮
How fucking dare they sully Rush with their desperate bullshit
That Alpha Gent ad, yikes! If I saw someone do a reveal that they had nft lining I don't think I'd be able to stop laughing
Derek i like you, big fan, why would you make me watch this lol
Ooh, and I bet they didn't pay to use "Tom Sawyer"! Right Wing shills never seem to respect artist copyright.
Plus, Rush is as Canadian as the day is long.
I'm guessing this ad knows the aesthetic and signifiers its target audience wish to ape, but by God - it's so toe-curlingly cringe.
This is the most hilariously tragic video I have ever seen 😂😂😂.
it may be hard to believe, but you’re an influencer too; of the good kind.
For instance, despite the "USA USA USA" branding, Sec. Hegseth's clothes are made by a company called Book A Tailor, which uses workshops in Thailand. To be clear, there's nothing wrong with Thai tailoring. The problem is soley in the business owner.
They look so uncomfortable in their clothing
They literally look as if maybe they lost their luggage Maybe they're wearing someone else's stuff that doesn't quite fit, but it's all anyone could find for them at short notice
Or, if deliberate, Laurel and Hardy cosplay It's so bad it's approaching the comic
at least we have that. they don't deserve comfort.
Do you know any good tailors in Thailand? I'm a fat woman living in Bangkok and need a good fitting suit for work.
These business owners are typically more interested in money than tailoring. They will sell you anything, even if it's a stupid gimmick — a contrast buttonhole, wacky lining, fun monogram, stitching inside made to look like hand stitching (even though it's 100% machine).
Anything to distract you from the fact that the garment is not actually well made. It does not fit nor flatter. It puckers and pulls. It has no shape. Ends up being all about flash and no substance. The company owner doesn't care because they just want to make a sale.
😳
Hameen is a tiny, assuming shop, but inside you will find an actual craftsperson who knows the technical work of tailoring. The quality is purely in the stuff that matters — fit, silhouette, make. My usual disclosure: This is not a paid tweet and I don't do paid tweets
As always, thank you for this insightful thread. Sorry, I have to ask, but who is this git in the video, and why would anyone even want to interview such non-entity? Thank you.
I'm definitely not a fashion guy but McGregor looks ridiculous. Even I can see that.
I was really, really hoping that at the end the interviewer was going to say something like "You dropped all that cash to look like THAT?"
The only thing uglier than this jacket is the soulless and horrible person wearing it.
Sec. Hegseth tries so hard to look like a manly manly warrior man, and he looks like an angry toddler in his too-tight suits.
To me, he looks like someone poor wearing a thrift store suit that doooesn’t quite fit
I don't think I would ever buy from a company called Alpha Gentlemen. The name just seems to cry out pretentiousness and overpriced products of likely dubious quality.
The dog is embarrassed.
Do they have permission to use this song? Do you happen to know @rushisaband.bsky.social?
I also can't get over how the company's logo is present throughout the entire video but doesn't have enough contrast to actually see the entire thing in all but maybe 3 frames. "Make it black because we're MEN" lol
At least the dog is well dressed.
😂
That video has to be ai parody right? 🤣
Using that Rush song for that was a choice....
To add: I love Rush. That song is great. It doesn't belong in this "commercial"
Peak Douche.
Thanks to you, I can notice little things off with the suit. Meaning it hurt all the more to see the AI generated images on the jacket lining. 😵🤮
No self-fabric gun holster?
Neither alpha nor a gentleman
Oh my god, how fucking needy that lining is. I bet he wears GIJoe underoos.
Thank again, as always. This is fascinating.
Thanks for the thread!
I once got dirty looks while passing through a Saks by being thrown off so badly by a completely miss-matched plaid on a 4 figure jacket, to the point where I blurted out "That much for THIS? None of the plaid even matches!" My husband thought it was funny; the sales staff not so much.
Mismatched pockets is just shoddy. I buy off the rack Aloha (Hawaiian) shirts, but I stick to certain Hawaiian-based brands because they do things like get the pocket match correct (and have better quality stitching too). Cheap imports always have mismatched pockets and it gets worse from there.
Any chance of getting a callout to those brands? It's so hard to gauge quality online.
I would like to know, too! My husband wears Hawaiian shirts. We've gotten some very nice ones from Tori Richard, but I'm always looking for new patterns. And they must have the perfectly aligned pockets.
I tend to buy them in-store when I visit Kauai, which limits my options a bit. (More on Oahu, of course, and mail/online order is definitely available.) Of late, I've been purchasing Tori Richard and Kahala, both of which have lines that are designed and produced in Hawaii. 1/
There's others too! Paradise Found is a brand I've not purchased, but they have some nice designs and are produced in Hawaii, too. You can generally get a good feel for some of them online - but it's true that it's not the same as being able to touch the fabric and see the quality. good luck! 2/2
Thanks so much!
One of the first details that make it an aloha shirt and not a tourist shirt. If the pocket isn’t matched it’s not worth looking further.
Awesome as always 😎🤣
Patterns not matching bothers me so much. (Love this thread even if that picture pains me.)
I remember when Lularoe was suddenly everywhere and even my sloppy goblin self could see how lousy that stuff was. the completely misaligned pattern on everyone's backsides being an eyesore a mile away.
That model. He has the tang of a Canadian/Texan mountebank. It’s profoundly eerie.
Ewwwwww! I didn’t even notice it’s face.
The workmanship is next level…
Wow! This jacket is stunning.
I am reminded of the jacket worn by a college band director I knew—bold black and gold MacLeod tartan, and utterly, horribly mismatched on the back seam. It may have looked fine from the front, but as the director, he spent virtually the whole concert with his back to the audience. Unforgivable.
This is a fantastic thread. What a beautiful piece of work! The pattern matching reminds me of my father (a tailor) who sneered at a blouse I was particularly fond of, pointing out that he would have never let that pattern misalignment pass in his days.
This is wildly impressive.
I'm howling at the shade being thrown, too.
Come for the beautiful tailoring, stay for the delicious barbs.
The comparison pics are chef’s kiss 🧑🍳💋
Derek is a maestro.
My mother was a seamstress and would flip out every time she saw a garment where the pattern didn't match at the seams.
anyone who has a real craftsperson in their family knows the judgement they will throw behind the backs at bad quality My MIL was a printers wife who I am sure rolls over in her coffin daily at the horrendous formal invites that people do "on their own" online
My mother passed in the 1970s. Plaid was her demon.
Simply gorgeous
I don't know, man, Kash Patel's facial expression is "permanent tamakeri masochist", so "shirt sleeves catching on jacket sleeves" just seems like an fashion extension of that...
Man that is one sweet jacket…
Why does Patel always look like he just horked an entire 8-ball in two rails?
Literally "just", as in one continuous, albeit jerky motion: *snkrk* stand smile. I wonder how much work it is to keep police K9's from getting downwind of him.
The poor dogs must be losing their minds every time he walks past 🤣
Holy moley that bespoke jacket is gorgeous.
Omg, I've seen some horrendous hotel/convention center carpeting in my lifetime, but that in the picture on the right is the absolute prize winner. 🤢
🤭
😂
🤭🤣
What makes the rolling curve of a lapel better than it being flat against the chest? Just to add more variety?
Oh my gosh. I never saw such a gorgeous detail on a jacket!
"chicken bacon ranch panini" 😂🤣
They have cheap shoes for the full look.
On the right, cheep shoes to go along with cheep looks.
I love your posts!
Perfection 😆😆👏👏
i was just thinking that man’s shape needed tailoring
Pretty sure the cut on the right is called the Oompa Loompa Cut. No?
Sloping shoulders. Who knew.
The garment on the right looks like it’s been slept in.
It usually is, if the reporting is accurate.
Haha. Indeed!
Lol. Nice comparison.